Are you hankering after a beautiful garden that is full of diversity but also one that isn’t a burden? If so, bombproof plants are the answer. These hard-working and reliable specimens will create a good-looking
space and are endlessly reliable, long lived and resilient to pests.
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“Bombproof plants are amiable, polite, work hard and aren’t primadonna-ish. They’re doers,” says plantsman and designer Chris Beardshaw, who also likes to use the phrase ‘cockroach’ plants. “They’re the plants that when we are doing a planting plan, we can absolutely rely on.” Of course, you have to be in tune with your local conditions and climate, but, as Chris says, they’re the ones that “get out of bed in the morning and say let’s get on with it”.
These no-nonsense – some might say boring – plants are also the designer’s secret tool for creating the all-important framework that shapes an outdoor space, keeping it interesting and characterful throughout the seasons. These reliables act as a skeleton around, underneath and on top of which you can then insert more delicate or fussy varieties. “If you select a good backdrop, you ensure exquisite texture, flower and often fragrance for the year,” says designer Emily Erlam. “I mostly design with this in mind – 80 per cent bombproof and 20 per cent fancy.”
Follow this formula and you’re on track for a garden or border that reduces disappointment too. “People love being in and around their gardens, but they don’t necessarily want to be a slave to them,” says Chris Beardshaw. “Bombproof plants help you do that – they’re not overly reliant. If you put them in the right
location, they will look after themselves.”
Each garden environment is unique, so it goes without saying that you should assess your soil and position before specifying plants that are also in keeping with the spirit of your location. A general rule of thumb is that Mediterranean shrubs work best in hot, windy and dry conditions. Emily Erlam, who has experience designing London roof terraces and Dungeness coastal gardens, looks to a combination of evergreens, such as Pittosporum tobira cultivars, and non-evergreen plants that will create shapes in the garden. “Depending on the situation, I will use an umbrella-type plant such as Euphorbia alongside domes, such as Santolina. I love rosemary, including the most wonderful Prostrata Group, and thyme – both are really valuable for creating structure during the year.” She suggests looking at plants with a dissected leaf and a long tap root that helps them tolerate the wind.
“The good-doer plant feels like it’s changed a bit over recent years,” observes Tom Brown, head gardener at West Dean Gardens in West Sussex, where the soil is inhospitably chalky. “It was always a plant that could cope with universal conditions or would perform and flower well. We used to think that Mediterranean plants were the answer to drought, but those same Mediterranean plants die in wet winters.” Tom recommends Rudbeckia maxima and Tulbaghia violacea as both are very tolerant in free-draining soil that is dry in summer. But he says they are also “able to cope with having their roots in water for a day or two”.
In north Norfolk – one of the hottest and driest areas of the UK, where lack of rainfall is a real issue – flower farmer Cel Robertson of the Forever Green Flower Company looks to performer plants that are consistent and look good in a vase. “We need to provide the quality without needing to irrigate hugely,” she says. Perennial grasses are among the company’s go-to plants. “One particular favourite is Chasmanthium latifolium that performs well even in the wet,” says Cel. “Fantastic for flower arranging, it produces for a long time, doesn’t get eaten by anything, and has no pest or disease issues. It’s just one of those stalwarts.”
Plants from the genera Bistorta, Anemone and Geranium are classic and readily available herbaceous perennials that enjoy most conditions and lazy gardeners will love. “I’ve never had anyone say ‘My Geranium endressii has failed,” says Chris Beardshaw. “Also Geranium macrorrhizum, particularly ‘Ingwersen’s Variety’, with a slightly pink bloom. That’s the epitome of a cockroach plant – stick it in and away it goes.” For Chris buddlejas, forsythias, currants and honeysuckles tick the same boxes, and he also recommends the climber Hydrangea viburnoides, which he first came across when he was about 12 on a visit to Hidcote. “It looks fabulously exotic and grows just about anywhere: in full sun, deep shade, dry or wet soil,” he says.
Chris frequently gets asked about what makes a good replacement for Buxus. “Luma apiculata is an absolute star, doing exactly the same job, but it’s from the high mountains of Argentina and Chile and doesn’t mind inclement, shady conditions and damper soils, and can be used as a shrub or pruned up.”
In Cumbria, at Lowther Castle & Gardens where Andrea Brunsendorf is head gardener, they experience high rainfall, high winds, extreme day and night temperatures, and the soil is heavy. “We have a lot of wildlife pressure too – rabbits, hare and deer,” she says. Diehards that endure these horticultural challenges include the low-level and clump-forming Alchemilla mollis as well the creeping alpine
strawberry, Fragaria vesca, for dry and wet edges. One of her favourites is the daylily Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus, which she grows in clumps in the Tapestry Border at Lowther alongside early flowering Salvia pratensis, with Geranium ‘Tiny Monster’ creeping through.
Of course, cultivation and care is still important for bombproof picks. Andrea recommends buying plants in 9cm pots so that growth occurs in a more adaptive way. And even the Med-origin bombproofs will need water at first, to establish. “Plant in the cooler months and water three times a week for the first summer. Then, once a week. After two years they should be pretty established depending on the
environment they are growing in,” advises Emily Erlam.
Are there certain plants that are naturally resilient to diseases? “The nature of a bombproof plant is that they have vigour and can outgrow a lot of the conditions that they come across,” says Tom Brown. “If there is bacterial damage, simply cutting them down and giving them a drink of grey water will encourage them to reshoot. The beauty of these perennials is that they have the robustness to come back again from nothing.”
There are, however, some very enthusiastic perennials that you’ll need to keep your eye on. “I find that some plants get a little too above themselves,” says Tom. “Succisella spreads very quickly and Verbena bonariensis can become a problem.” Regular editing of both is recommended. Other plants self-seed a little too freely, including teasel. “Little firecrackers such as Verbascum chaixii are perfect for an open site with relatively free-draining soil,” adds Chris Beardshaw.
Perhaps the best way of deciding on the bombproof plants for your patch is to observe what grows locally in nature or in neighbours’ gardens. With climatic conditions changing, the list of old faithfuls continues to adapt and change, allowing us to explore new and interesting varieties and configurations. Some may be dependable now, but not necessarily in the years to come. The joy is in the experimentation.
21 bombproof plants for the garden
Astrantia major Sparkling Stars Pink (= ‘Westarpin’)
One of several astantias grown by flower grower Cel Robertson on her light, sandy soil in full sun. The Sparkling Stars Series, which comes in white, pink and red is one of her particular favourites partly because the flowers are much larger than those of some other cultivars. “They are a bit more showy in the garden as a result,” she says. Height and spread: 50cm x 30cm. RHS H7, USDA 4a-9b† .
Origanum laevigatum ‘Herrenhausen’
A reliable herbaceous perennial with stems of pink flowers. “It’s wild on the South Downs, so incredibly tolerant of dry places and it’s great for pollinators,” says head gardener Tom Brown. “I’ve grown it under roses.” 60cm x 45cm. AGM*. RHS H6, USDA 5a-9b.
Bistorta affinis ‘Darjeeling Red’
A quiet plant that has a lovely pink and green textural quality. “It turns a really beautiful brown, which is a nice contrast to any gravel,” says designer Emily Erlam. 30cm x 60cm. RHS H7. USDA 5a-8b.
Calamagrostis brachytricha
“The perennial grass I like to use as an edger in lots of situations,” says Emily Erlam. Tolerant of a range of conditions and architectural. Its plumes are purple and fluffy. 1m x 50cm. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 4a-9b.
Amsonia ‘Blue Ice’
A short form of reliable Amsonia tabernaemontana with starry blue flowers, which Emily Erlam says is a good doer for sun, shade and coastal gardens. 60cm x 40cm. RHS H5, USDA 3a-9b.
Arum italicum ‘Marmoratum’
One that designer Chris Beardshaw recommends for tricky spots. Its marbled, arrow-shaped leaves create a dense carpet that covers the ground from late autumn until midspring. 30cm x 20cm. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 5a-9b.
Kalimeris incisa ‘Madiva’
Clump-forming aster with pale-purple, daisy-like flowers that last from June to autumn. Likes full sun, but happy in all but the driest soils. 60cm x 50cm. RHS H7, USDA 5a-9b.
Hydrangea viburnoides
Previously known as Pileostegia viburnoides, this evergreen, self-clinging climber is happy in sun or shade and produces masses of creamy-white flowers from August to early winter. 6m x 2m. RHS H5, USDA 4a-8b.
Lamium orvala
A glamorous, long-flowering red dead nettle with a flower that looks like a painted orchid. “You can cut them back in autumn and they will bounce back in spring with lovely fresh curled foliage,” says Chris Beardshaw.
Sanguisorba officinalis ‘Red Thunder’
This easy burnet offers button-like, deep-burgundy flowers from June to September and is happy in full sun and light shade. Recommended by Cel Robertson for late summer colour. 1.2m x 60cm. RHS H7, USDA 4a-8b.
Angelica sylvestris
A robust biennial or short-lived perennial, offering delicate umbels in late summer and early autumn. “It self-seeds beautifully, feeds a lot of pollinators and is structurally robust,” says head gardener Andrea Brunsendorf. 1.5cm x 90cm. RHS H5, USDA 5a-7b.
Lysimachia clethroides
Flowers in late summer, and loved by pollinators. “It romps away and nothing affects it weather wise at all,” says Cel Robertson. 90cm x 60cm. AGM. RHS H6, USDA 3a-8b.
Clerodendrum bungei
Summer-flowering deciduous shrub, with scented pink flowers that emerge from iridescent buds. “It pretty much does its own thing and is also great for pollinators,” says Chris Beardshaw. 1.8m x 1.8m. RHS H4. USDA 7a-10b.
Veronicastrum virginicum ‘Album’
Producing tiny white flowers on strong straight stems from midsummer to early autumn. “Nothing affects it,” says Cel Robertson. “Even though it gets quite tall, there are no issues with the wind as the stems are quite rigid.” 1.2m x 45cm. AGM. RHS H7, USDA 4a-8b.
Agapanthus ‘Delft Blue’
Offers graceful pale-blue flowers on long stems in late summer. “We don’t feed them, we don’t water them, we don’t do anything and they just produce and produce and produce,” says Cel Robertson. 1.2m x 60cm. RHS H5, USDA 8a-10b.
Galium odoratum
This vigorous mat-forming rhizomatous perennial offers dainty star-like white flowers above fresh-green foliage in late spring to early summer. 45cm x 1.5m. RHS H7. USDA 4a-8b.
Valeriana pyrenaica
Spanish valerian produces lacy heads of tiny lilac flowers above leathery foliage throughout summer. “Prefers cooler conditions, but doesn’t mind sitting in the sunshine or shade,” says Chris Beardshaw. 1m x 60cm. RHS H5, USDA 4a-9b.
Heptacodium miconioides
This honeysuckle relative is a multi-stemming shrub with twisted and peeling bark and fragrant white flowers that appear late in summer. 8m x 4m. AGM. RHS H7, USDA 5a-9b.
Hemerocallis lilioasphodelus
A long-cultivated species of daylily with sweetly scented, yellow flowers that appear in early summer. Flowers open in late afternoon, and last for just one day. 75cm x 75cm. RHS H6, USDA 4a-10b.
Symphyotrichum ericoides ‘Pink Cloud’
A reliable no-stake aster that doesn’t have any mildew issues. “Although tall, it doesn’t need supporting,” says Cel Robertson. “There’s a graceful arc to some of the stems, so is a lovely shape in the vase.” 60cm x 45cm. AGM. RHS H7, USDA 3a-10b.
Rudbeckia subtomentosa ‘Henry Eilers’
Offers sprays of flowers with rilled petals, long stems and a good yellow for that time of year. “It’s windproof, drought-proof, rabbit proof,” says Cel. “Nothing kills it.” 1.2m x 60cm. RHS H6, USDA 4a-8b.