Once a favourite of Henry VIII and served at the table of Queen Victoria, medlars have become Britain’s most unloved tree fruit. It is a status that Jane Steward is determined to change, describing herself as on a one-woman mission to revive this easy-to-grow tree.
Jane’s love of medlars came about by accident. Having spent much of her working life in the City of London, Jane moved to Norfolk when she married her husband, David. One of their wedding presents was a medlar tree, which they planted in the grounds of their north Norfolk home. Illness led Jane to seek a less pressurised lifestyle, focusing on the garden.
Fascinated by medlars, she planted an orchard of more than 115 cultivars, and set up a business making chutney and jelly. In 2020, she became the official National Collection holder. “I felt it was very important to set up a Collection, because no one else had done so,” she says. “We need to maintain the cultivar history.”
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Medlars are originally from the Crimea to the Caucusus and Iran, and long cultivated elsewhere; they have been grown on the western shores of the Caspian Sea for centuries. Brought to England by the Romans, the medlar’s fruits were much sought after, especially in medieval and Tudor times.
As medlars are self- pollinating, there is no need for more than one tree, and with a long lifespan, pruning requirements are minimal
Vast quantities were sold at Covent Garden markets in the Victorian era, while in 1920 wine connoisseur George Saintsbury noted that medlars were the best fruit to accompany all types of wine. Changing tastes may be a reason why it fell from favour during the late 20th century, along with its appearance – the fruits are not the most attractive, giving them some very crude nicknames in both English and French.
Jane’s enthusiasm for medlars is infectious. “Medlar trees require little care and have a lovely shape, and the fruits are so nutritious [they are high in Vitamin C], coming at a time when other harvests finish.” The flesh of a ripe medlar is soft and brown and, according to Jane, has a delicate, fragrant, sweet yet citrus flavour. “You can eat them as a table fruit or make them into a ruby-coloured jelly, or chutney. They are not difficult to cultivate. The fruit doesn’t attract wasps while the fruit is forming.”
The trees provide several seasons of interest. “The blossom is beautiful. The flower buds open in May, not all at the same time, and sometimes into early June. They have pretty white petals, the flowers developing a touch of pink before the medlars start to form. They are also good for pollinating bees, and the long flowering period helps deal with any climate or weather stresses such as air frosts, sun or rain.” Autumn leaf colours range from yellows through burnished bronze and reds almost to ox-blood.
The flesh of a ripe medlar is soft and brown, and has a delicate, fragrant, sweet yet citrus flavour
Identifying one cultivar from another is not easy. “There has been no DNA of medlars recorded, and for most you cannot tell the difference at leaf or flowering stage,” says Jane. The flowers of ‘Nottingham’ have a double row of petals that look creamy and frilly, while ‘Flanders Giant’ has very large leaves. ‘Iranian’ has a much daintier leaf, and is among Jane’s favourites. “It is a pretty little tree with a weeping habit. The fruit has a closed calyx with sepals like fringed eyes.”
Half-standard medlars are ideal for any size of garden. “A half standard only reaches a height and spread of around 4 x 4m. Multi-stems are usually broader in the beam than they are tall as they approach maturity (5m x 6m) so are best for a large garden or as a statement tree.”
As they are self-pollinating, there is no need for more than one tree to ensure fruit development. They have a long lifespan, pruning requirements are minimal and there are no known viruses. They will grow on almost any soil, too. Having noticed that some trees have been developing brighter leaves than others, Jane has begun to wonder if slight differences in soil may be the cause; they prefer neutral to slightly acid soil.
Trees are normally grown on sturdy hawthorn or quince rootstocks and are supplied as bare roots for planting in winter. Jane plants her trees in a sheltered spot, adding a handful of manure and leaf mould plus four litres of water. Blood, fish and bone meal is added to the backfill.
Once established, they need very little assistance. “The leaves will tell you if they are getting too dry,” says Jane. Medlars can be grown as part of mixed hedges, in orchards or as specimen trees. “They
are very useful in agroforestry/permaculture systems as they are medium sized, resilient and add diversity to the tree line.”
The fruit develops slowly throughout the year, requiring around 180 days growing time, and is not ready for harvesting until late autumn. The fruit size depends on the cultivar and ranges from 3-6cm in diameter: ‘Large Russian’, for example, provides bigger fruit than ‘Nottingham’. A mature standard tree can provide up to 50kg of fruit.
“When you see the fruit begin to fall from the tree, it is the signal to start picking,” says Jane. “I spread a tarpaulin underneath and shake the tree. The fruits drop off, I pile three to four fruit in a stackable plastic tray, the kind used by greengrocers, and leave them in a shed, with the door open, to soften.” This softening process is known as bletting. Bletting turns the hard fruit into a soft, slightly mushy texture that is easily identifiable by touch. Once bletted, the skin and/or sepals of the fruit can be pulled aside and the flesh eaten with a spoon, or turned into chutney or jam. It can also be frozen for use many months later.
Interest in medlars is certainly increasing. They are appearing on menus created by top chefs and one brewer is experimenting with medlar beer. HM The King is said to have introduced three medlar cultivars to the grounds of Sandringham. A medlar also replaced a planned apple tree in Monty Don’s Dog Garden at this year’s Chelsea Flower Show. “It used to be said that medlars could only be grown south of Oxford,” says Jane. “I grow them in Norfolk, and they are also known to grow further north. And a Scottish grower on the Isle of Skye has even begun to experiment with them.”
Useful information:
To visit Jane’s orchard, email janesteward@eastgatelarder.co.uk or visit eastgatelarder.co.uk
Words: Angela Youngman
