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Trim the leaves away from the cauliflower and cut the thick stalk back as much as possible without any of the florets separating. Trickle the trimmed cauliflower with the extra-virgin olive oil and season all over with salt and pepper.
Using half the butter, drop small pieces of it down around the stalk so it falls between the florets. Spoon in two to three tablespoons of water, too.
Make sure you have a medium-hot fire going. Add a few small hardwood logs so it’s nice and smoky.
Set the cauliflower down, stalk uppermost, on a grill over the fire, to one side of the direct heat. Place a large terracotta flowerpot, a saucepan or a fire cloche over the cauliflower. Cook the cauliflower for 25-30 minutes, then uncover it and turn it over. Cover again and leave to cook for about the same time again.
Meanwhile, set a small pan down over the fire and add the remaining butter. When it’s bubbling away, add the flour and stir it in with a wooden spoon until smooth. Pour in the milk and bring to a simmer, stirring all the time. Add the cheese and mustard and season with some salt and plenty of black pepper. Simmer the sauce until the cheese has melted and it’s lovely and thick. Add the chopped dill and set to one side.
Make sure the cauliflower is tender before you take it off the fire. You can check this by inserting the tip of a knife into the stem. There shouldn’t be much resistance. Scatter the cauliflower with a little extra dill and serve in thick wedges with lots of cheese sauce.