The air is filled with birdsong and the buzz of insects as Simon Damant mows the meadows on the Wimpole Estate where he works as a forester. The scythe in his hands makes barely a whisper as it slices effortlessly through a stand of grass and wildflowers in a wide arc. The tool he is using might look primitive but, Simon passionately believes, it has yet to be bettered, whether you are cutting small garden meadows or the paths in your allotment. “The modern alternative is a strimmer, which guzzles fossil fuel, makes a racket and can injure wildlife. It doesn’t even do a particularly good job,” he says. “I can cut a meadow faster and neater with my scythe than anyone with a strimmer.” Nor is this an idle boast. Simon is a regular champion at national scything competitions and has made good on this claim (in strictly adjudicated conditions) on many occasions.
I can cut a meadow faster and neater with my scythe than anyone with a strimmer
Even so, by the Second World War many in the UK had largely abandoned this traditional low-cost, low-impact tool in favour of motorised lawn mowers and combine harvesters. Only the Grim Reaper and a niche group of environmental enthusiasts kept hold of their scythes. And then Poldark hit our screens. The scene in which actor Aidan Turner stripped off his shirt for a spot of sweaty mowing was voted the best TV moment of 2015 by Radio Times readers and suddenly everyone was interested again.
“Actually, going topless is one of the real dangers of scything,” says Simon, with his tongue slightly in his cheek. “You’ve got to be careful to slap on the sunscreen.” Given that a scythe is essentially a razor-sharp blade lashed to the end of a long stick, sun burn is not the only health and safety issue but, if used properly, it is neither dangerous nor particularly hard work. “My only objection to that scene in Poldark was that he was making it look hard work,” says Simon. “You certainly don’t need to break a sweat if your technique is correct.”
Good technique is key, both for safety and efficiency, which is why Simon encourages beginners to get a bit of hands-on training. “There are lots of courses available. The Scythe Association website is a good first port of call.” And once you get the hang of it, suddenly mowing can become a pleasure. Instead of battling with temperamental starter cords and smelly engines you discover that, as with all the best gardening jobs, there is real joy to be had from working in tune with nature.
If you're not convinced scything is for you, here's the best cordless mowers
How to use a scythe
As a skilled mower, Simon uses very little energy to wield his scythe. Rotating from the hips, he slides the blade along the ground from right to left, simultaneously moving his weight from right to left foot. Harnessing the velocity of the snath (handle) allows him to slice cleanly through the grass with minimal effort. To complete the cutting arc, he bends his left knee slightly at the end of the swing, going with the momentum of the action.
What type of scythe do you need?
• A scythe’s blade is razor sharp and can be highly dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. Simon recommends novice mowers sign up for a scything course or some sort of hands-on instruction before starting work. You can also find helpful instructions online (scythesupply.com) and in The Scything Handbook (Filbert Press, £14.99), published on 22 September.
• Scythes have been in use for at least 2,000 years, although their design has changed slightly over time. Today there are a many models to choose from, often named after the geographical regions where they originated. The Austrian scythe (above, in the foreground) is generally regarded as the best for a beginner. This model has an adjustable curved wooden snath (available in a range of sizes according to the height of the main user) and is not too heavy. It can be fitted with a variety of different blades, depending on the job in hand. (The English scythe is pictured on the left and Danish scythe at the very back.)
• There are fine grades of blade for cutting grass and fleshy weeds, and more robust ditch blades for clearing rough grass and coarse weeds. Length of blade is another choice. Beginners, especially if working near tree trunks or fences, may find a shorter blade around 50-60cm is easier to manage. Mowers working on a larger scale favour a longer blade, up to 90cm (although the average is 75cm), for obvious reasons, however, this will also be more prone to damage and harder to wield effectively.
• If you do have a large meadow to mow it is worth bearing in mind that the best time of day to mow is just after sunrise. As temperatures rise during the day, a plant’s moisture content gradually transpires, making its stem harder to cut.
How to use a scythe: a step-by-step guide
1 Each scythe should be uniquely set up to suit the physique and mowing style of its owner. The first step is to fix the lower handle to sit on a level with the hip bone.
2 Next, rest your elbow on the lower handle and extend your arm up the snath (the main upright of the scythe). The top handle should line up with the tips of your fingers.
3 Fit the blade loosely and slighty tighten the D collar (which attaches the blade to the shaft), then adjust the hafting angle. To do this you need to rest the end of the snath on one knee and pinpoint the position of the beard, the blade’s rear edge nearest the shaft, then slowly pivot the scythe on your knee away from your reference point until the tip reaches a point at least 5cm below this reference point.
4 Then fit a wooden wedge to lift the edge of the blade up or down in relation to the ground when cutting. You may need to fine tune the set up if you have problems mowing.
5 The blade must be sharpened after approximately ten metres of mowing. A sharp blade is easier to work with and produces a neater cut. In the field, use a handful of mown grass to roughly wipe the blade clean before you start sharpening.
6 The best tool for sharpening in the field is a traditional whetstone. The whetstone must always be used damp, so a water carrier is an essential piece of kit. Simon uses a cow’s horn, but plastic alternatives are available.
7 Support the snath on your left thigh and cradle the back edge of the blade with your left forearm. Using the fingers of your left hand, feed the blade under your left arm from heel to tip, as you sharpen along the cutting edge. Pass the whetstone over the blade on alternating sides in a scissoring action, as you would to sharpen a kitchen knife.
8 Always use a blade cover when storing scythe blades. The razor-sharp edge is extremely dangerous, with the power to sever a tendon. If you are nervous handling the blade, begin by wearing Kevlar gloves.
9 After a day’s mowing, the blade will usually need remedial treatment to restore its cutting edge and remove any nicks in the metal. This process, known as peening, involves a special anvil and hammer. Support the blade carefully and work from heel to point, beat the cutting edge against the peening anvil with the hammer to flatten and smooth it out, before sharpening with a whetstone.
